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Port Moresby

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Port Moresby (Pot Mosbi in Tok Pisin) is the capital of Papua New Guinea.

Understand[edit]

The port and city center of Port Moresby

Port Moresby is the capital and largest city of Papua New Guinea (PNG). The city is on the shores of the Gulf of Papua. Its population is around 300,000 and growing quickly. The indigenous people of the area are the Motu-Koitabu. Moresby, as it is commonly known, got its name from Captain John Moresby who arrived in 1873 as the first European visitor.

The city is quite spread out. The original colonial settlement was by the sea and this is still the port area, as well as the main business and banking district. On the hills above are upmarket residences. The area is served by the Crowne Plaza hotel. Closer to the airport, separated from the original town by hills, is Waigani, a 1970s development built to house the Government offices of the newly Independent (September 16, 1975) country of Papua New Guinea. Nearby are the housing areas of Boroko and Gordons, which also contain most of the large stores.

Get in[edit]

Port Moresby is the main point of entry into Papua New Guinea for air-traffic and most of the boat-traffic. The national airline is Air Niugini[[1]]. This flies to and from Australian cities in codeshare with Qantas, but also to Fiji, Solomon Islands, Singapore, Indonesia, Japan, Hong Kong, and the Philippines. Virgin Australia[[2]] flies to Brisbane on behalf of the other local airline, Airlines PNG[[3]]. Travellers from Eurasia may need to stopover in Auckland, Brisbane, Perth, Sydney, Melbourne, and/or Even Manila in the Philippines

Airfares from Australia are quite cheap, especially if you book online and seek one of the special fares. From other countries, fares are fairly expensive and it may be cheaper to fly to Cairns and pick up a flight to Port Moresby from there.

Sunset view from Tugubaga hill Port Moresby

The customs inspection at Port Moresby International Airport (Jackson Airport) can be challenging, where the customs officials may seek to charge you or confiscate your personal items unless you give them some money. Often, they insist you present receipts upon your arrival for your personal effects such as electronic items, personal laptop, and even your personal clothes to charge you 10% GST or else, your items will be held. This tactic is getting more and more popular. In fact, according to the PNG Custom website, personal effects are duty-free. There are cases where tourists' passports are held without a legal basis by customs officers, in an effort to extort money.

Get around[edit]

For a tourist, the attractions in Moresby can be spread out. There is little 'attraction' in the central business district and walking around will not get you very far. It is nice to walk along Ela Beach and around market areas but otherwise, you will be reliant on motorized transport. There is the odd push-bike around the place - though finding one for hire may be a challenge.

By PMV[edit]

The locals rely on mini-buses (known as Public Motor Vehicles) that service all parts of the city. Whilst cheap, some drivers do not mind over-loading their vans. All PMVs have their route number and destination printed on - it is easy to ask locals where the buses go, and they'll be happy to help and warn you.

By car[edit]

Car rental agencies are available close to Jacksons International airport but driving in Port Moresby might not be what most people are used to. In some areas of POM, the locals throw stones at the car, usually just for amusement but in some cases, they manage to crack your windshield. There are cases of people standing in the middle of a stretch of road they have mended and demanding compensation from people driving by, and as soon as you get outside of the city the roads deteriorate to muddy trails that only a 4x4 with an experienced driver should attempt. If you want to see the sights near Moresby such as Crystal Rapids near Sogeri or the start of the Kokoda, a 4x4 is highly recommended.

By taxi[edit]

There are numerous taxis (some 'teksis' too) around Moresby and calling one from your hotel will bring one promptly. You can try your luck hailing one but if you want to feel safe arrange a friend or your hotel to call one. Make sure it has a working meter, and keep an eye on it. The taxi drivers will frequently try to demand more money than they should.

A traditional claw-sailed canoe at the Hiri Moale Festival

See[edit]

  • Moitaka Wildlife Sanctuary, Sir Hubert Murray Highway. The Moitaka Wildlife Sanctuary is now closed for re-development.
  • Port Moresby Nature Park, Goro - Kaeaga Rd, Port Moresby, [4]. A must for the visitor. Located next to the University of Papua New Guinea, it has some amazing examples of PNG wildlife such as birds of paradise, cassowaries, tree kangaroos, multiple wallaby species, and many other native bird species. Lush, tropical, and well-kept gardens. A great break from the dry, dusty surroundings and bustle of the capital city. If you are lucky you might catch a wedding while you are there as some locals like to conduct the ceremony in the gardens.
  • Touaguba Hill Perhaps not so much to see, but this is where the ambassadorial residences are located and are also where many of the well-to-do expats and locals live. There is a nice view from the top of the hill overlooking the center of the city and the ocean.

Itineraries[edit]

Do[edit]

  • Ela Beach, Port Moresby.
  • Golf (Royal Port Moresby Golf Club), H5GR+VWJ, Magani Cres, Port Moresby, +675 79783322, [x]. A nice golf course located right across from the government buildings. The prices are quite acceptable for visitors. Be careful, crocodiles inhabit the water holes of the golf course. The main building has a nice restaurant where one can have lunch and have a few SP beers (South Pacific beers) after a round of golf.
  • Scuba Diving. A number of reefs and wrecks are within close proximity to Port Moresby and diving can be arranged through day vessels or on nearby Loloata Island (which has its own dive shop). There are a variety of sizes and depths for all experience levels.
  • Yachting and Boating (Royal Papua Yacht Club), Champion Parade, Granville, Port Moresby, Port Moresby 140, Papua New Guinea, +675 3211700, [x]. .Also serves good Australian cuisine with some Papua New Guinean touches. Has à la carte menu and a buffet that varies according to the day of the week. An invitation from a member might be required to enter.

Events[edit]

  • Hiri Moale Festival. the weekend of PNG's Independence Day in mid-September. The centerpiece is a race of up to 100 traditional Lakatoi canoes, recalling the sea voyages undertaken by the Motuan people from the Port Moresby area who exchanged sago and clay pots with the people of neighboring Gulf Province. The departure of the canoes from Port Moresby's Ela Beach is really spectacular. The Festival is the city's main cultural show with traditional performances, as well as the canoes.

Buy[edit]

  • Ela Beach Craft Market Run by the Ela Murray International School and held on the last Saturday of each month, this market brings together local artifacts from all over Papua New Guinea. An easy way to get some beautiful carvings, handwoven baskets, or any of a number of other things to bring home as souvenirs.

Eat[edit]

Groceries[edit]

There are basically four stores to buy groceries if you are a foreigner in Port Moresby: Andersons Foodland, now called SVS Harbour City, Stop and Shop in Hohola, and Boroko Foodworld in Boroko and Gordons. Andersons is located right next to the Royal Papua Yacht club and usually suffices. Otherwise, there is Foodworld which is larger and located over the hill in Boroko. An even larger and newer Boroko Foodworld is further east in Gordons. Just recently Port Moresby opened its first shopping mall called Vision City in Waigani. There is a large hypermarket called RH selling anything from household furniture to baked beans. Their supply is abundant and the quality is good and prices are competitive. What one should bear in mind though is that everything imported might not always be there. Often if you see something you like you have to buy a lot of it because there is no telling when the next shipment is coming. This doesn't apply to basic foodstuffs but rather to things that might not be in high demand such as herring. RH has basically closed this gap.

Restaurants[edit]

  • Asia Aromas, +675 3214780. Chinese Restaurant serving great food located inside the Steamships Plaza on Champion Parade in the downtown area. Is popular with the local expatriate community.
  • Daikoku Japanese Steak House, G5P4+932, Port Moresby (Located inside the Andersons Foodland area). It offers great Japanese cuisine cooked directly at your table (teppanyaki). Don't forget to try the "Puk Puk" which is Tok Pisin for crocodile.
  • Fu Gui, H52P+RH9, Port Moresby, +675 3230188, [x]. Assortment of Asian-style cuisine. Try the Nasi Lemak chicken. In Gordon's, down the road form RH and Brian Bell.
  • Seoul House Restaurant, G5QX+WXM, Port Moresby, +675 3252231. Decent korean food. Next to 5-Mile service station.

Drink[edit]

The drink of choice in Port Moresby as in the rest of Papua New Guinea is South Pacific lager: "SP beer". However, once that cultural experience is done, you will probably prefer to move on to the more refined 'SP Export' lager, or 'Niugini Ice' beer. To buy alcohol you have to go to one of the characteristic yellow and green colored shops that are usually integrated into the supermarkets. You don't want to go to the ones that aren't. They have a relatively limited selection of wines, mostly Australian or New Zealand brands. The prices are higher than you would expect because of the taxation of alcohol. The locals tend to get quite rowdy when they drink (as everywhere else) so it's best to avoid anyone that seems to be under the influence. Typically most ex-pats drink at hotel bars or sports club bars, which have a more relaxed atmosphere.

Sleep[edit]

  • Airways Hotel, Jacksons Parade (Located close to the airport), +675 324 5200 (, fax: (675) 324 5300), [x]. Has both hotel rooms and apartments for long-stay guests. Has a nice pool with a view down the hill to the airport, and a great breakfast buffet. PNG's only delicatessen and an Indonesian spa are also located on the premises.
  • Crowne Plaza, (In the centre of the business district of Port Moresby and close to Tugubaga Hill), +675 309 3000 (fax: +675 309 3333), [x]. checkin: 1PM; checkout: 11AM. Amenities include a nice pool, an international class restaurant, a fitness centre, and a business lounge
  • Grand Papua Hotel, Mary Street, Port Moresby 121 National Capital District (In the centre of Port Moresby), +675 304 0000 (fax: +675 304 1000), [x]. A new (opened in December 2011) hotel that describes itself as the first "deluxe hotel" to open in Port Moresby. Rooms are expensive but modern and clean. Contains a Spa & Beauty Salon as well as a gymnasium and sauna.
  • Holiday Inn, (Waigani Road & Wards Road), +675 303 2000 (, fax: (675) 325 0837), [x]. Located a bit off from the centre this hotel has very nice rooms, some sports facilities, and a great pizza restaurant (with live music at times).
  • Lamana Hotel, [x]. A nice place for a quick lunch buffet and an happening casino at night.Food is good. Place to visit certainly with all its friendly staff.
  • Loloata Island Resort, +675 325 8590 (, fax: +675 325 8933), [x].

Stay safe[edit]

Port Moresby is well-known for its crime. Carjackings, muggings, and worse are common. There is a great deal of concern about the level of crime and civil disorder and about the ability and willingness of the police to cope. Police officers have been found to be complicit in major crimes. Police brutality against minor offenders, complainants, and witnesses has been the subject of criticism from the international group Human Rights Watch.

It is possible to minimize the chances of becoming a victim of a crime by being aware of your surroundings, avoiding places where large groups are gathered, and avoiding places where offenses are prevalent. The Waigani area, particularly the area around the traffic lights and the Port Moresby Golf Club, has experienced a number of carjackings.

It is always wise to seek the advice of a person familiar with Port Moresby before venturing into unknown areas. In most cities in PNG, it isn't safe to walk the streets by yourself, even in the daytime, if you are a woman. PNG is infamous for the high incidence of rape. It is hard to fathom how a culture can be like this, but a shockingly large proportion of PNG men think it is OK to rape women.

Saltwater crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus) are still common throughout all of Papua New Guinea. However, you are extremely unlikely to run into one.

Cope[edit]

Embassies & Consulates[edit]

  • Gr-flag.png Greece, P.O. Box 6207, Boroko-Ν.C.D., +675 325 3077 (fax: +11 679 253 441).
  • Id-flag.png Indonesia, Sir John Giuse Drive Lot 1&2, Section 410, Kiroki Street, Gordons 5, NCD, Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea (P.O.BOX 7165 Boroko, NCD), +675 325-3116, 325-3544, 325-3435 (), [x].

Get out[edit]

With relatively few attractions, Moresby is usually just a stopping point for tourists heading to other parts of PNG. For major locations see Papua New Guinea. Possible day trips from Port Moresby include:

  • Sogeri Plateau. 50 km from Port Moresby and, at 800 m, an escape from the heat. Sogeri marks the end of the Kokoda Trail, which was the route through the jungle taken by Japanese soldiers in 1942 in an attempt to capture Port Moresby.
  • Yule Island. A small island just off the coast of Central Province, a two-hour drive west of Port Moresby. This was one of the first areas of PNG to have European contact. Catholic missionaries settled in 1885. They were joined by Filipino catechists and, as a result, the people of the area often have distinct Filipino features. It is a popular spot for a relaxing getaway and for good seafood.


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